Dinner Date: A night out in Salem
I ran into Jen Roketenetz, the Salisbury Parks and Recreation administrator, at Stop & Shop while buying pizza ingredients, I was looking for a “dinner date.”
I was hoping for company that week at Salem Willows Park in Salem. Jen, with her typical wisdom, suggested I invite Salisbury Town Manager Neil Harrington. I emailed Neil, and he responded with interest.
Salem Willows has a charm not much different than Salisbury Beach. Its beach and boardwalk provide a range of take-out options—seafood, pizza, tacos, ice cream, and of course, popcorn.
My first visit to the park was with my wife, Nina, near the end of summer, after we had attended the funeral of our friend, Eric Bartley. Nina had grown up with Eric’s daughter, Shauna, and their connection was a key part of how Nina and I met years ago at a New Year’s Eve party. That trip to Salem Willows was particularly meaningful – not only because of the memories Nina shared, but also because I finally got to try Salem Lowe, the 112-year-old Chinese restaurant Nina had always talked about so fondly.
As we walked through the park, Nina became my tour guide, recounting fond memories of childhood trips from Lynn to Salem. We stopped at Salem Lowe first, where I tried their famous chop suey sandwich – exactly what it sounds like, chop suey on a hamburger bun. Nina ordered a tender steak sandwich, steak in a gravy on a bun, and I couldn’t resist trying a pepper steak sandwich as well.
After our meal, we wandered the boardwalk of her childhood, sharing memories of her best friend, Sarah Emanuel, who had inspired the “23 combination meal” on Salem Lowe’s menu. We finished the day with popcorn and ice cream from E.W. Hobbs at the far end of the boardwalk.
I’m grateful we had that moment because by the time I finally connected with Neil, Salem Lowe had closed for good. Once a staple of the Willows, originally owned by the Yee family and later by Kathleen Rodgers and Ryan Harriman, it shut its doors at the beginning of September.
This was the second time in recent years it was set to close, and each time it feels like the end of an era—much like if both Tripoli and Cristy’s at Salisbury Beach were to suddenly vanish. The chop suey sandwiches and other distinct American Chinese dishes that had drawn visitors for over a century are now gone maybe for good.
Neil and I both agreed that our second-best option for dining was the historic Hawthorne Hotel, a 93-room, 99-year-old establishment that houses two restaurants and shares an address with the Salem Marine Society, a seafarers’ charity organization that predates the United States. The hotel, named after novelist Nathaniel Hawthorne, has stood on Washington Square in Salem since its construction in 1925. Neil’s second cousin, former U.S. Congressman Michael Harrington, now owns this historic—and reportedly haunted—hotel.
There are always three flags flying at the hotel. On the day we visited, the flags included the U.S. flag (which always flies). The flag of Montana (one of the 50 state flags that rotate), and the flag of Ireland, which flies in a spot reserved for a foreign country’s flag, The U.S. flag is on the rooftop near the “Ship’s Cabin,” a replica of a tall ship captain’s quarters, and is where the Salem Marine Society holds meetings. While we didn’t visit the Cabin, we attempted to dine at the Tavern, one of the hotel’s two restaurants. Unfortunately, it was too busy. The other restaurant, Nathaniel’s, was closed for the evening.
Neil graciously thanked the hostess, and we headed across the street to the Olde Main Street Pub, an Irish spot known for its Western European comfort food. Neil went for the Guinness mushroom stew, while I had my eye on the shepherd’s pie with lamb, but it had just sold out—a familiar pattern with this spree. Instead, I opted for my second choice, a burger paired with an Athletic IPA NA, while Neil chose a Smithwick’s. In hindsight, it wouldn’t be fair to call it a second choice—maybe destiny had a hand in making it my choice all along.
Finally settled in, our conversation soon shifted to Neil’s historic family and his 2023 run for mayor of Salem. Although he didn’t win, it was clear how much the campaign meant to him. It would have been his second time serving as mayor. Neil comes from the Harrington political family, which traces its roots to Irish immigrants who arrived in Salem in the 1870s.
Before settling in Salem, the Harringtons lived in London for 23 years after leaving Ireland during the Irish Potato Famine. They first made their way to Beverly and then to Salem. Like many Irish immigrants they were treated as second-class citizens but gradually integrated into the community by building churches, schools, and connecting politically.
Neil’s great-grandfather, Cornelius Harrington, during the Second Industrial Revolution worked in the shoe and boot industry, becoming a union activist and even getting arrested for organizing workers in Haverhill, and Manchester, N.H. In 1916, Cornelius was appointed by Mayor Benson to become Salem’s city police marshal, the first important office held by the Harringtons. His son, Joseph, later became a state senator, a state representative, and eventually the mayor of Salem.
The family’s political legacy continued with Kevin Harrington, Neil’s father, who served on Salem’s city council before being elected state senator in 1958. Kevin became Senate President, holding the position until 1978 when Billy Bulger took over. Michael Harrington, Joseph’s son and Kevin’s first cousin, was elected to the U.S. House of Representatives in 1969 on an antiwar platform. He left Congress in 1979, finding it difficult to support his family on a congressman’s salary.
Politics truly seems to be the Harrington family business. In 1989, Neil was elected mayor of Salem at age 33, following in his great-uncle Joe’s footsteps. He served four two-year terms until 1997, when he lost his reelection bid. After a few years working under State Treasurer Shannon O’Brien as director of the state’s unclaimed property division. Neil was hired as town manager of Salisbury in May 2003, a position he has held for over two decades.
As town manager, Neil has overseen significant developments in Salisbury, including the construction of a state of the art library, a new police station, and the expansion of the East Coast Greenway and rail trails. He has managed to help grow the town, and keep the town safe while maintaining low taxes. When I asked him about Salisbury’s success, Neil credited the work of his staff, and two strong finance directors for their understanding of municipal budgets, though I suspect his leadership plays a major role. Leadership involves experience, charisma, and luck —and Neil has a bit of all three. Salisbury has benefited from the legacy of the Harringtons.
One of the most challenging aspects of Neil’s job is handling town meetings, where he’s often required to address very complex warrant articles. He does so with skill, even when faced with the well-informed, in your face citizens of Salisbury. Thanks to Neil and his team’s efforts, Salisbury maintains a AA bond rating, allowing the town to borrow money at low interest rates.
Neil, a lifelong Salem resident, graduated from St. John’s Prep and later from St. Louis University in Missouri. He is married to his wife, Sarah, and together they have four children and five grandchildren. Neil has a deep interest in his family’s history, tracing their journey from County Cork, through their 23 year stay in London, to their eventual influence in Salem. Standing well over 6 feet tall, Neil continues the family tradition of basketball – his father was 6-foot-9 and also a player – Neil still plays two to three times a week with longtime friends in the early mornings in Salem and Beverly.
What really stood out to me was how much Neil seemed genuinely interested in me – perhaps even more than I was in him. He asked me as many questions as I asked him. I left our dinner with two certainties: first, Salisbury is incredibly fortunate to have someone like Neil at the helm. He brings not only his personal experience but also the collective wisdom of his family’s history as he guides the town.
And second, perhaps most importantly, I realized just how intelligent Neil is. He has a deep understanding of how government functions and draws on the struggles his Harrington ancestors faced upon arriving in America. He understands immigration, and he recognizes the need for balanced growth to keep Salisbury affordable. It is possible Neil is running the best town in the Commonwealth because of his passion, compassion, and experience.
I felt fortunate to learn more about Neil, his family, and his connection to Salem. A quote from Nathaniel Hawthorne’s “The Scarlet Letter” beautifully captures the spirit of the “Dinner Date” project: “It contributes greatly towards a man’s moral and intellectual health, to be brought into habits of companionship with individuals unlike himself, who care little for his pursuits, and whose sphere and abilities he must go out of himself to appreciate.”
Taking the time to sit down with someone, especially someone you think you already know, can lead to a deeper understanding. Invite someone unlike yourself to dinner – it’s a great way to learn about them, the place you’re dining at, and, most importantly, about yourself.
”Dinner Date” is a series of stories written by Salisbury resident C.J. Fitzwater about the places and people he meets locally for dinner. If you are interested in meeting and telling your story, send him an email at cfitzwater@ymail.com.
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