Originally published May 30th 2024
“My two favorite things in life are libraries, and bicycles. They both move people forward.”
– Peter Golkin
Three years ago, on a whim, my wife Nina, and I purchased E-bikes. At that time, E-bikes were becoming mainstream. Though they first emerged in the 90s, they were expensive, bulky and had limited range. However, with advancements in battery technology, they have become more affordable and are now a popular mode of transportation, especially in large cities. This technology has provided lower-income individuals, people who have difficulty riding traditional bikes, and unlicensed individuals with a flexible and effective means of transportation. E-bikes are revolutionizing commuting.
Between 2019 and 2022, E-bike sales in the U.S. surged by 269%, and the market is expected to grow even further, reaching a value of $2.59 billion. While e-bikes became popular globally earlier, the U.S. saw a significant increase during Covid. My wife, and I turn instantly into 12 year olds as we jump on our bikes to explore our local communities.
If you live on the Salisbury/Seabrook line, cleverly dubbed “Salisbrook’’ by Fred Knowles, you can start your journey on the Eastern Marsh Trail at the old Seabrook Fire Station. This 3.6-mile paved trail weaves through a dense forest area, formerly part of the Old Eastern Railroad, which once connected Portland, Maine, to Boston. The trail leads to Partridge Brook Park and a dog park, then crosses Lafayette Road/Route 1 via the new footbridge. Continuing into the central part of Salisbury, you can turn right towards Amesbury on a 2.1-mile stone dust trail called The Ghost Trail towards Amesbury, go left towards the beach or continue straight on the Old Eastern Marsh Trail towards Newburyport.
If you continue past the Ghost Trail at Lions Park on the Old Eastern Marsh Trail, you’ll cross a well built wooden bridge to Gardner Street. Here, you’ll notice remnants of old railroad equipment in the woods. At the Gardner Street and Elm Street intersection, the topography changes significantly. An old building supply company sits in a low area, hinting at a former train station. The scent of creosote lingers as you make your way to the Great Marsh. This paved trail cuts through a stunning salt marsh, offering views of mud flats, tributaries, and the Merrimack River. As you head south towards the river, the trail extends onto Route. 1, leading over the Gillis Bridge on new paths designed for biker safety, continuing into Newburyport.
The trail on your right at Lions Park is known as the Salisbury Ghost Trail. Named for the “Ghost Trains” that carried carriages from Amesbury Mills covered in white muslin cloth, the train cars resembled ghosts floating as their cargo. This was the site for the only train robbery to ever happen in New England. At the end of the 2.2 mile “Ghost Trail,” you come to a fork in the road. One path leads across the Interstate 95 Whittier Bridge on the Garrison Trail, connecting Route 110 in Salisbury to Route 113 in Newburyport.
This trail offers a bird’s-eye view of the Merrimack River, linking the area to the rest of New England. You can take an exit ramp onto Ferry Road in Newburyport, leading you to Maudslay State Park, with 16 miles of fields, forests, and trails to explore. If you continue on the trail and cross over Route 113, you’ll find an abandoned highway leading to Hale Street in Newburyport, or you can make your way from Story Avenue to Low Street. We often take this route for dinner at Newburyport’s best Italian restaurant, Giuseppe’s.
The other path at the end of the “Ghost Trail” leads to the 1.6-mile Amesbury Riverwalk, a converted rail bed running parallel to the Pow-Wow River. This will bring you to the highest concentration of microbreweries within a one-mile radius (though this is just a guess).
Downtown Amesbury may be the gem of the Coastal Trails System when it comes to dining options. You can choose Caribbean food at The Coop, Mexican at Casa Maria’s, Tex Mex at Hoppies Cantina, Chinese at China Star and Jade III, Italian at Ristorante Molise, pub food at The Barn or The Blue Moon, pizza at Flatbread, and American classics at Phat Cat, or the converted train depot restaurant Crave. An upscale steakhouse is all that’s needed to make Amesbury the ultimate dining destination. As my belly size suggests, I know good food, and Amesbury has it.
Amesbury has the spirit of a frat bro, plenty of parties, plenty of beer, and a whole lot of fun. He has student debt, and enough hipsters to keep the beer brewing. Amesbury is handsome, with great talent, and all the potential in the world.
After crossing the Gillis Bridge from the Old Eastern Marsh Trail in Salisbury, you will enter the Clipper City Trail. Follow the waterfront through Market Landing Park, nearly reaching Joppa Park before crossing Water Street. Travel through the South End, under High Street, until you reach Parker Street in Newbury. Following Parker Street past Kelly’s Hardware and the courthouse, you’ll arrive at the crosswalk to the MBTA station, where you can choose to take your bike on the train all the way to Boston.
If you decide to stay local on the Clipper City Trail, you can loop back to the harbor. This trail is almost more of a park than a trail, with its 3.2 miles of paths lined with busy activity. In the summer, it transforms with views of a historic New England village, the river, and Joppa Flats. The trail takes you through a densely populated city, showcasing local art, a public garden, and a peaceful cemetery, all the way to the MBTA station. Finally, the trail pays homage to the railroad’s past, ending with sculptures bordering Winter Street.
Newburyport is beautiful, colorful, and almost naïve. It has a teenage spirit, old enough to worry what others may think of her, but still too young to not make mistakes. She always wants to be in style, but she is way too immature to understand that no one cares.
Salisbury has done a fantastic job of creating a system of trails that helps connect the East Coast Greenway, which is a 3000 mile trail and road system that connects 15 coastal states from Calais Maine to Key West Florida, the Greenway is constantly evolving, there is approximately 1,050 miles of off-road trails completed so far, with new investments every year. Currently there is a piece under construction that will connect Hampton to Portsmouth. Salisbury’s town planner Lisa Pearson, alongside Jerry Klima should be commended on the fantastic job of helping with creating miles of beautiful trails for us all to enjoy. You can get anywhere in town rather quickly using the local trail system.
Like an old man, Salisbury may appear worn and aged from the outside, but at his core he is tough, and well maintained, he lives within his means, is always prepared, and is just trying to leave a little something behind.
If you are thinking about getting an E-bike, get one. Your purchase is an investment in yourself. I would not be a bike rider if I didn’t have an E-bike. The pedal assist feature makes it easy for anyone to ride. Bicycles are fun, and they reverse the aging process. Trust me you to will instantly turn into a 12-year-old as soon as you get on one. If you want to ride sometime shoot me an email. You can’t be sad while riding a bike. Buy the bike, enjoy your life.
Salisbury resident C.J. Fitzwater is a curious traveler, perpetually on the lookout for fresh frontiers. With each journey, he blends historical threads into his stories. Email him at: cfitzwater@ymail.com.
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